Showing posts with label odd facts. Show all posts
Showing posts with label odd facts. Show all posts

Monday, 23 March 2020

UK government forms for medical and emergency procurement

The UK government has no database of UK manufacturers.
They have two forms to show interest in providing medical or emergency goods and services.
  • The first is general including personal protective equipment like face masks
  • The second is for ventilators. I guess that manufacturing quickly in the UK is what they're most interested in; there is a "where" box next to each item on the second form.

Goods and Services Assistance: COVID-19 - smartsurvey.co.uk/s/l5b32s or

bit.ly/covidhelpuk

GOODS

  • Food
  • Hotel Rooms for any use
  • Hotel Rooms for lodging
  • Manufacturing equipment
  • Medical Equipment -
  • PPE Medical Equipment -
  • Testing equipment Medical Equipment -
  • Other Office space for any use
  • Warehouse/Industrial space
  • Other (please provide a description of these goods):

SERVICES

  • Community Support
  • Consultancy for Medical Equipment
  • Design Consultancy - other
  • Construction expertise
  • Engineering expertise
  • IT services expertise
  • Manufacturing expertise
  • Medical expertise
  • Project management / procurement expertise
  • Social Care
  • Transport - logistics or courier
  • Transport - people
  • Other (please provide a description of these services)

GOODS

  • Do you already produce regulated ventilators that are used in a UK clinical setting i.e. Medicines and Healthcare Products Regulatory Agency (MHRA), approved with a CE mark?
  • Have you made parts or systems for ventilators:
  • for human use in clinical setting? Yes No
  • for use in veterinary setting? Yes No
  • use in any other setting? Yes No If you answered yes to any of the above, please provide further details. Please indicate whether you design, manufacture or supply any of the following medical devices or component parts and, if so, where.
Category: Design / Manufacture / Supply / Location
  • Air Compressors / Pumps
  • Bellows
  • Self-inflating bags
  • Gas mixing valves
  • Pressure Regulators
  • Flow Control valves
  • Solenoid valves
  • Pressure relief valves
  • Check valves / one-way valves
  • Industrial Automation components (Safety Relays, PLCs)
  • Power Supplies
  • Electric Motors, and motor controllers
  • Linear actuators and controllers
  • Tubing and fittings
  • Pressure Sensors and Indicators
  • Oxygen Sensors and Indicators
  • Flow Sensors and Indicators
  • Manometers
  • Heat and moisture exchanging filters (HMEFs)
  • Air Filter, HEPA Filters

SERVICES

6. Please indicate in
  • which of the following activities your organisation has relevant skills,
  • which is your specialism, and
  • where these activities take place.
Category: Relevant skills / Specialism / Location
  • Design / specification
  • Rapid prototyping
  • Manufacturing (manual)
  • Manufacturing (automated)
  • Machine Shops/sheet metal/tool manufacture
  • Pneumatic part manufacturers/suppliers
  • Contract/Product Assembly
  • Certification/regulation/testing
  • Logistics
  • Medical Training
7. Please indicate which enabling resources are you able to provide in service of this initiative.
  • Suitable space
  • Equipment
  • Trained personnel
  • Other
theengineer.co.uk/uk-government-manufacturers-ventilators-nhs/ - posts in The Engineer independent.co.uk/news/business/coronavirus-ventilators-uk-new-dyson-order-government-shortage-nhs-a9426561.html - post in The Independent mention a GTech contract and that GTech will make the plans open source. Headlines seem to go to party donor Dyson instead.
gtech.co.uk/ventilators
This one from a college doesn't mention a manufacturer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IMaYFNB9tA&feature=emb_rel_end There is also an open source design project in Ireland which I don't understand - it's about slack channels and github for those qualified to help.

https://www.ventilatorchallengeuk.com/
has been promised orders

Party donor James Dyson has been promised orders, with no web page findable yet
https://hexus.net/ce/news/general/141073-everything-know-dyson-covent-ventilator/

Sunday, 20 December 2015

graduate fashion week and fashion scout

If I do a new post, I loose the title links to posts in 2015, so here is a note on the top of an old post.\
It is about a government consultation ending 26th of January 2018
http://veg-buildlog.blogspot.com/2018/01/httpswwwgovukgovernmentconsultationspro.html
... is the start of a response to the migration advisory committee's request for evidence about the effects of overseas students on the UK. Anyone who has been an international student might want to write-in and say why the colleges with most international students seem to be the ones with the worst student feedback and in the most crowded parts of the UK.

At the moment, the questions themselves are near the bottom




Another explore into fashion subsidy: two events which get in the papers at the same time as London Fashion Week or just before
Funding is from subscribing fashion colleges, with extra sponsorship from London taxpayers alongside Goerge at Asda, Rimmal, and L'Oreal. The group have also been given ear-time by UK Trade and Investment and a select comittee at the House of Commons, who invited them in to give a presentation that was somehow meant to be in aid of the charity. UK Trade and Investment sent a witness to give evidence to a select committee, explaining how they subsidise fashionistas from this world to attempt export. Apparently the scheme often offers to pay bad debts by buyers, so it is a subsidy for the more canny and dodgy buyers in other countries rather than for anyone who pays tax in the UK.

Surprises to taxpayers in London and the UK

  1. One surprise is the name "Fashion Scout", previously used in the phrase "Vauxhall Fashion Scout" to suggest scouting for fashion from anyone, for example taxpayers who's money helps sponsor the show and are scouted in Vauxhall near where I live,  No. The emphasis is on fashion graduates.
  2. Another surprise is that the fashion colleges are so organised in presenting their degree shows to sponsors and journalists, rather than to clothes shops and shoe shops who have trouble getting on the mailing list or a chance to see a degree show. The charity accounts acknowledge two purposes - promoting the students and promoting the colleges - but don't say that students and their employment should be the priority which is silly. If the students do well, the next generation of students will find a course on unistats; there is no need push the name of the college in some vague way. Web sites already say whether a college is vibrant or renowned. That's already too much praise; facts need to say the course syllabus what happens to graduates in this trade were  applicants look for work skills.
  3. The third surprise - or it should be a surprise - is that the Mayor of London subsidises something a bit like a closed shop for a particular kind of graduate designer willing to present a "collection", rather than other taxpayers who might sell more or circulate more money through the economy. Someone with a clothes factory for example, maybe in Bradford or Leicester or Harringay, or some of their customers. No.
  4. "the Ethical Award ... was judged by Pants to Poverty owner Ben Ramsden. Excited by Rosie's work he said; "It's great to see a fresh vibrant perspective on ethical fashion"..  - quote from Gruaduate Fashion Week blog 2013
    This is someone who does not promote a welfare state nor UK production, although he says he has nothing against it.
These are some accounts for Graduate Fashion Week.
http://apps.charitycommission.gov.uk/Accounts/Ends20%5C0001044420_AC_20120731_E_C.pdf

The text on the accounts says the same as what's on the web site. It's a trust with trustees from about ten fashion colleges, and some sponsorship. The web site has about three times as many colleges listed. Trustees meet ten times a year and contract-out management to FSI Events Ltd. The purpose is supposedly to get work and PR for some college graduates, but I don't see the fairness in helping some and not others when all have paid the same, nor how it helps get work when there is no system of stalls to sell the clothes, or none that I know of, and no mail-out to niche market shopkeepers that might want to buy something. Or none that I know of, and I sell shoes for a living so I should know. I don't sell dresses or high fashion, so I might be missing something but it looks as though this event concentrates too much on getting press coverage and too little on selling clothes, a fault shared with London Fashion Week.



Fashion students know there are more fashion graduates than fashion jobs

There should be pressure from students to find out what guarantee of help is available on graduation, and how effective it is, because a lot of fashion graduates don't find work. Looking at accounts of what work they find and write-in on questionarres, it's seldon related to fashion courses. Students and potential students need to find a way to stop colleges promoting colleges and start promoting freelance work skills and employment to fashion students. To say "it's very competative", is not what a student should read tutors as saying in reviews of a course. I think a student wants to read reviews of tutors saying "it's impossible for most people to find a paid job with an employer in fashion, but we can show you how to find a hobby and a bit of freelance work with a web site and a stall and a sewing machine and if it takes-off it might lead to a career". That's the realistic statement I think students should report from good courses.

Looking at courses on unistats.direct.go.uk, and once you are used to using the site's drop down menus, it only takes a few minute to find out that a quarter of graduates from a lot of mainstream courses with "fashion" in the title do not go-on to work or study, with lower figures for University of Derby, University of East London, Bradford College and Wolverhampton University. Any student considering any of those colleges, or the mainstream ones like University of the Arts' London College of Fashion, should reconsider if there's no sensible offer of help to make and sell clothes at the end of the course. A chance to compete to pay to be in an event a bit like ballet display for an invited audience is not the same thing, and college reps sent to organisations like Graduate Fashion Week ought to think what helps their students work freelance rather than what attracts most column inches for an event and maybe helps get a job at M&S for one graduate.

Colleges further north, where workshop space is a bit cheaper, might have a bit more luck and set-up an alternative fashion week aimed at making sales for manufacturer-designers. The format could be more of a market for student and gradate stallholders than a catwalk show, most of the time, and be combined with help for students making their products or finding local workshops to make the products. Some system for funding fabric, thread, machine time, and stall space as part of the college service could help a lot. Stallholders might not want to work every day or give up other low-paid day jobs, but  £12,000 a year salary after graduation is typical for northern colleges like Wolverhampton or Bradford; colleges for teenagers can score £11,000, so a chance to do something independant and maybe earn almost as much on a stall could appeal. Students running stalls might get-over their well-known shyness to attempt any job other than designing; they might become more interested in pattern cutting which is better paid, or something like manufacturing. Whatever they choose, if it's freelance they're more likely to create work for other people as well as leaving the handfull of jobs like M&S buyer open for the hundreds of other people who graduate after fashion courses each year.

The colleges in more expensive areas score little better than colleges at the bottom of the list, with students from some University of the Arts fashion courses only writing £15,000 salary on a typical survey form a year after graduating. I don't know if that goes further in London than £12,000 in Bradford, but neither salary goes far.

If I get-around to looking-up any more unistats data on fashion graduate employment, I'll add it to this list.

Fashion Colleges on the Graduate Fashion Week web site

Followed by a course from that college with "fashion" in the title and link to stats
Then the proportion reporting that they're in work after six months, or the proportion in work or more study, and the average reported salary. The students who don't return the form are more likely, I guess, to be less employed and lower paid.

Bath Spa University - BA (hons) Fashion Design - 70% to 85% - £ unknown
Anglia Ruskin University : Cambridge School of Art - BA (hons) Fashion - 80% to 95% - £14,500
Cambridge School of visual and performing arts - "Fashion Design .. collaboration with Kingston " London"
Kingston University - BA (hons) Fashion -
Leeds College of Art (Leeds College of Art) -
University of the Arts - London College of Fashion
Manchester Metropolitian University - Manchester School of Art BA (hons) Fashion -
Northumbria University in Newcastle -
Northbrook College in Sussex -
Norwich University of the Arts
-
Nottingham Trent University
- BA (hons) Fashion Design -
Plymouth College of Art
-
Ravensbourne -
Southampton Solent University -
Sheffield Hallam University -
University for the Creative Arts Epsom and Rochester - BA (hons) Fashion - 95% or 100% - £15,000
University of Brighton, Faculty of Arts -
University of Central Lancashire -
University of Derby - BA (hons) Fashion - 30% or 40% (50% are "other") - £14,500
University of East London -
University of Hertfordshire - BA (hons) Fashion Design -
University of Huddersfield -
University of Leeds - BA (hons) Fashion Design -
University of Northampton -
University of Salford -
University of South Wales -
University of West London -
University of Southampton Winchester College of Art -


There's another group of colleges for the Samsonite International Catwalk Competition, but I don't know where to get employment figures for their graduates
AODLKA
Binus NorthumbriaIN
Shih Chien UniversityTW
B&D MoscowRU
IEDIT
FIT MilanIT
Colegiatura ColombianaCOL
NAFASGP
LISAA Mode ParisFR
FAD International AccademyIN
Accademia di Costume e ModaIT
PRATTUS
RMITAUS
Moteskolen AS Esmod Oslo
Centro Design Mexio


Related posts:
http://planb4fashion.blogspot.co.uk/2015/12/rebalancing-economy.html - just a paragraph and a link to something about rebalancing the economy, which I can't remember if I've read:
http://www.cresc.ac.uk/medialibrary/workingpapers/wp87.pdf
http://veg-buildlog.blogspot.com/2015/10/boring-economics-teaching-is-interesting.html
http://pantstopoverty.org.uk
Blog on one page as a feed:
http://planb4fashion.blogspot.co.uk/atom.xml?redirect=false&start-index=1&max-results=500



Planb4fashion is a blog by Veganline.com which is a vegan shoe shop

the value of fashion

London Fashion week justifies its funding with a document called "The Value of Fashion", written for them by Oxford Economics. Flicking through the pdf pages, it becomes obvious that they're about the value of clothes shops like the ones that sponsored the document. A bit like writing a report called "The Value of Banks". Another odd thing about the document is that it got some public sponsorship from UK Trade and Investment, who pay for some visitors to go to London Fashion Week, and the bit of the Greater London Authority that was then London Development Agency. I don't think taxpayers got good value from the report. For example you can't claim that Sports Direct is part of some specially useful or beneficial industry that deserves government encouragement and subsidised trade shows.

Meanwhile, if clothes shops really do contribute a lot to the economy, some of them find ways of not paying tax. Monsoon Accessorize PLC have called for clothes shops not to be taxed if they use the word "ethical" occasionally (this is from a firm that pays its UK suppliers late and breaks minimum wage law in both India and the UK) and Arcadia Group pays its tax in the boss's wife's name, at the Monaco income tax rate of zero.

https://web.archive.org/web/20140414223637/http://www.ukuncut.org.uk/targets/3 has some background:

The Value of Fashion: Sir Philip Green

Philip Green is a multi-billionaire businessman, who runs some of the biggest names on British high streets. His retail empire includes brands such as Topshop, Topman, Dorothy Perkins, Burton, Miss Selfridge and British Home Stores.

Philip Green is not a non-dom. He lives in the UK. He works in the UK. He pays tax on his salary in the UK. All seems to be in order. Until you realise that Philip Green does not actually own any of the Arcadia group that he spends every day running. Instead, it is in the name of his wife who has not done a single day’s work for the company. Mrs Green lives in Monaco, where she pays not a penny of income tax.

In 2005 Philip Green awarded himself £1.2bn, the biggest paycheck in British corporate history. But this dividend payout was channeled through a network of offshore accounts, via tax havens in Jersey and eventually to Green’s wife’s Monaco bank account. The dodge saved Green, and cost the tax payer, close to £300m. This tax arrangement remains in place. Any time it takes his fancy, Green can pay himself huge sums of money without having to pay any tax.

Before the election, the Lib Dems liked to talk tough on tax avoiders. But as soon as they entered the coalition, this pre-election bluster became just another inconvenient promise they quietly forgot. In August David Cameron appointed the country’s most notorious serial-tax avoider to advise the government on how best to slash public spending. Not a single Lib Dem minister uttered a word of complaint. A Guardian editorial denounced this as “shameful”.

Philip Green’s £285m tax dodge could pay for:
  • The full, hiked up £9,000 fees for almost 32,000 students
  • Pay the salaries of 20,000 NHS nurses
And if that’s not reason enough to take action against Sir Philip, it is worth noting that he has built his £5bn fortune on the back of sweatshop labour, using Mauritius sweatshops where Sri Lankans, Indians and Bangladeshis toil 12 hours a day, six days a week, for minimal pay.
Arcadia Group isn't singled-out for being a bad company like its rival, Sports Direct, but the practice of using minimum wage zero hours contracts is common in retail.


More than 1 million British workers could be employed on zero-hours contracts, new figures released on Monday reveal, suggesting that British business is deploying the controversial employment terms far more widely than previously thought.

The Value of Fashion: Sports Direct

Sports direct admit that 90% of UK staff are on zero hours contracts.

Three staff at the department for business are trying to think of an answer according to the minister. Oh and Sports Direct make no statement about the conditions in their Vietnamese factory suppliers. Oh and no badness is meant towards the lawyer who got IP work for sports direct and volunteered for a few board meetings at Ethical Fashion Forum after offering free IP surgeries to UK business at a neighbouring project called own-it.

The Guardian have a page about Sports Direct
One of the articles lists accusations, but leaves one out: the company is less hypocritical than others. It offers fake markdowns and says that's legal. It pays less than the minimum wage and maybe that's not quite legal but it has a defence in saying that some hours are spent waiting to be haranged and searched. It has a staff handbook which states you can be sacked for more or less anything, and, if no reason can be thought of, most of the staff are from two rival temp agencies anyway so a word can be had with the agency. This again might not be quite legal but is common enough. Most of us have had jobs a bit like this, but Sports Direct forces politicians to think about it, rather than hiding the facts in detail and denying them as adult social care providers do for your granny's weekly visit from a care assistant.

Here is the quote:

Ashley’s Sports Direct chain has made him the 22nd richest man in Britain, estimated by the Sunday Times Rich List to be worth £3.5bn. Temporary workers at his warehouse, by contrast, get paid hourly rates that work out below the minimum wage and suffer the kind of indignities – including rigorous harangues over the public address system to work faster – that come straight from a dystopian novel. Ashley, as well as being very rich, is also the unpopular owner of Newcastle United. The items he sells are made cheaply in east Asia. His warehouse depends on cheap eastern European labour. Few individuals so neatly encapsulate the fortunes, in both senses, of modern Britain.

To do list and note to self: try to catch-up with this stuff. Those who read more newspapers and belong to trade associations probably find them a year earlier, but hey.

http://www.policyconnect.org.uk/apmg/events/launch-alliance-report-repatriating-uk-textiles-manufacture

The Alliance Report - repatriating UK textiles manufacture

http://www.policyconnect.org.uk/apmg/home

All Party Manufacturing Group

High End Designer Manufacturing

A report on Protecting Existing Resource and Encouraging Growth and Innovation

Report commissioned by the British Fashion Council, UK Fashion & Textile Association, Creative Skillset and Marks & Spencer Research by Oxford Economics and Glasgow Caledonian University

Steering Group
Introduction by Caroline Rush p4
Executive Summary p7
Key Findings p8
part 1
Introduction p10
CASE STUDY 1: Mulberry p14
part 2
Background Context p16
CASE STUDY 2: John Smedley p28
part 3
Survey Results p30
CASE STUDY 3: Sourgrape p34
part 4
Modelling Results p36
CASE STUDY 4: Private White V.C. p40
part 5
Conclusions, Challenges & Recommendations p42
part 6
Methodological Appendix p46
part 7
Acknowledgements p50

Update: last year the British Fashion Council commissioned a new report, with the usual bias towards people who talk about fashion, and high fashion, but with two sets of economists instead of one and some attempt to contact real manufacturers among the list. One of the sets of economists work at a college that runs London fashion courses, rather than factory training, but at least the use of two should encourage them to spot each others' special effects. There are even a couple of shoe factory people interviewed on the list from - Norman Walsh and Grenson.
Note to selt: read the report, which is called High End Designer Manufacturing
http://britishfashioncouncil.com/uploads/files/1/BFC%20Initiatives/manufacturing%20report.pdf


Planb4fashion is a blog by Veganline.com which is a vegan shoe shop

Sunday, 13 December 2015

the new ethical china

the new ethical china

The fake words "ethical fashion" were invented in 2005.

At the same time, government was pumping millions of pounds into Anglo-Chinese trade in the creative industries. UK Trade and Investment had been given the priority. The London Development Agency had an office in Beijing, for reasons that were never clear. "Minister James Purnell" is quoted in the grant proposal. So is this a plot about secret agents, funding PR efforts that would take words like "British", "jobs", "Vegan", "Fair Trade", "Organic", "no fur", "Human Rights" and "Democracy" out of fashion? And replace them with phrases like "concious awareness" and "artisan" and "ethical fashion"?
Did the UK Ambassador to Peking stop raising questions about human rights and say "that's a nice jacket - shall we go shopping?" instead?

Some of what government got-up to at the time is listed in this grant proposal asking for 80% of the Higher Education Funding Council's Innovation Fund, which was duly paid.

University of the Arts Grant to Promote Jobs in China

This is an unsympathetic transcript of University of the Arts grant proposal. No words have been changed but tables and graphics in the original may not convert. Basically there is no safeguard against some creative accountant setting up a seminar called "making it ethically in China", encouraging people to use Chinese manufacturers, and taking tax money of UK manufacturers. The thing seems to be built on a momentum of name dropping and hot air by people who believe nonsense like "the knowledge economy" to justify the world they see rather than look at the human rights record of the Chinese government or the exchange rate manipulation of UK and Chinese governments against the interests of people in the UK. The courtier-ship and grant-artistry starts here.

HEIF 3 Competition Stage 2 Application Form Creative Capital – World City
Part A The case for the project
Creative Capital – World City will provide the specialist business, economic, technical, creative and cultural expertise required to support the UK creative industries expansion into key world markets. The partner universities, which are leaders in these complementary fields, together with the Centre for Creative Business, will deliver this through the Creative Industries Observatory in London and 5 international business hubs in China and India.

“Our economic future lies in high-value, knowledge intensive industries. Put simply, to make the UK the world’s creative hub”

In keeping with UK Government priorities (most recently expressed in the 2006 Budget) and regional policy for London, the purpose of this innovative project is to increase the competitive advantage of UK creative companies doing business, or wishing to do business in India and China, thereby developing the world market for the UK creative industries. Creative Capital – World City will directly support UK companies in identifying and siezing new opportunities, understanding the regional social, cultural, economic and business contexts, preparing their business plans and strategies, and identifying and successfully engaging in business development opportunities in these countries.

Building on proven and successful research and HEIF knowledge transfer (KT) activities e.g. Centre for Creative Business, Enterprise Centre for the Creative Arts and Own IT (Creative London IP advisory service), a new London based centre for expert knowledge in the creative industries will be established. The project will also work with UK-wide creative companies and key creative networks to research creative activity / opportunities and succesfully penetrate and expand demand in the target markets through dedicated staff at five Creative Business Centres overseas. The essence of knowledge transfer in this international context relies upon creating and supporting unique partnerships and collaboration etc to enable particular projects (such as fashion or design projects) to be accomplished. Staff at the Centres will be a critical resource to assist creative companies in sustaining key business relationships in India and China. The project will provide:

The Creative Industries Observatory (CIO), a facility for UK creative businesses which will gather, interpret and deliver high quality relevant intelligence on the target markets and Creative Industry trends in the UK, China and India
5 internationally located business Creative Business Centres - hubs – operated by dedicated business development specialists through which opportunity/ creative business activity and market intelligence can be channelled between Chinese, Indian and London/UK businesses
Networking opportunities in the emerging markets
Liaison with local knowledge and expertise in the target markets
New, carefully targeted, KT activities to assist international development of creative businesses and, through structured training, build their confidence to engage with Indian and Chinese businesses
Support to business in exploiting new creative business opportunities in these emerging markets
Additional direct foreign investment into London and the UK Development of 3rd stream income from KT related to the creative industries for a range of UK HEIs

(A i) Description of the Innovative nature of the project

The innovative nature of the project lies in
Its international ambition i.e. the distinctive UK - China - India dimension which responds to ambitious UK government plans for the creative industries
Its key role for the UK economy in establishing a Creative Industries Observatory, the centre of expert knowledge for understanding and supporting UK creative companies either already engaged in or wishing to enter the emerging markets of China and India
The establishment of international Creative Industries benchmarks based on CIO data
The development of international business/knowledge transfer hubs, the Creative Business Centres
Combining leading edge technology, economic and international studies and applied research with world class creative art and design and business management
A strategic and innovative alliance with highly appropriate corporate partners, HEIs and their networks
The use of international HEI partners with established geographical presence and contact networks in the target regions which will be of immediate help to the project
The innovative use of existing KT networks in London/UK including Centres for Knowledge Exchange networks
Targeting of international KT for the creative industries, with a specific focus on strategic areas of opportunity for UK plc such as digital media and design e.g. Fashion, communications and product.

(A ii) Articulation of need

There are numerous statistics confirming the importance of the creative industries to the UK economy and the need for them to internationalise:
In 2001, creative industries accounted for 8.2% of UK GDP and contributed £54.8 billion to UK Gross Value Added, £112 billion in annual revenue and £11.5 billion in exports.
From 1997-2001 UK creative industries grew by an average of 8% per annum, compared to an average of 2.6% for the whole of the economy.
Creative industries contribute £21 billion to London’s output, a considerable amount juxtaposed with the City’s £35 billion. In terms of jobs growth creative industries are London’s most important sector
From 1997-2002, employment in the UK’s creative industries grew at three times the rate of the economy as a whole. In June 2003 creative employment totalled 1.9m jobs.
The global market value of the creative industries has increased from $831 billion in 2000 to $1.3 trillion in 2005; more than 7% of global GDP

These are vital statistics that need to be kept up to date. The Creative Industries Observatory will liaise with DCMS and other agencies to design and develop an effective programme of ongoing statistical data research.

H.M. Government, via the DCMS and other departments/ agencies, has targeted the creative industries as an important economic sector for UK plc. The London Development Agency has taken a strong lead in setting the regional economic agenda for London with respect to the creative industries. Through its Creative London agency, it has delivered crucial intervention and support to London-based creative businesses.

At the London Business School in November 2005 Creative Industries Minister James Purnell announced the Creative Economy Programme. This seven-step programme will ensure that cultural institutions, policy makers and funding organisations work together to support the growth and productivity of the creative industries. Concurrently the DCMS announced a new measure to promote UK creativity globally. DCMS and UK Trade & Investment, with other partners in government, are supporting the work of three industry led export groups helping to develop the Government strategy for the export of goods and services from the Creative Industries sector:

● Creative Exports Group (CEG) ● Performing Arts International Development (PAID) ● Design Partners

In February 2006 the Creative Industries Minister announced that 7 experts have been appointed to lead the Creative Economy Programme and its drive to make Britain the world’s creative hub

Government recognises the tremendous growth in importance of trade with India and China to the UK, e.g. UK-India Education and Research Initiative (UKIERI) pump primed by £10M of UK government funding which was announced by the Prime Minister in November 2005, the agreement to grant 1,000 working visas a year for Chinese graduates to gain work experience in the UK, the proposed Phase 2 of the Prime Minister’s Initiative to support HEI international activities (April 2006) and the expansion of the Scholarships for Excellence programme - aimed at building links between Chinese business community and UK HE – to all of which University of the Arts London (UAL) will contribute.

A prime source of help for UK companies to improve their international trade is the government agency UK Trade and Investment. Following a recent announcement by Gordon Brown, ‘a revamped UK Trade and Investment will set new targets for expanding trade with China and India and other emerging economies’.
The issue for UK HEIs and for the creative industries, typified by small business, is how do they engage with these international opportunities in a realistic and effective way?

The Creative Capital – World City project has been designed to give direct support to the Government’s Creative Economy Programme. It will work with the DCMS/ UKTI and other agencies to deliver the Government strategy for the export of goods and services from the Creative Industries sector. Creative industries companies will benefit through specialist KT support from universities with relevant expertise, offered in liaison with UKTI support.

London/ UK creative businesses intending to begin trading in India/China need help. There is a key need in China and India to ensure their international developments are sustainably structured for the long-term. They need market intelligence, local contacts, access to Indian and Chinese business networks, showcasing, B2B introductions and local knowledge. They also need assistance with understanding and addressing cultural requirements and specific training in how to best exploit international business opportunities. Partner HEIs need to seize the opportunity for growing 3rd stream income for KT services involving UK creative exports, the demand for which is high in India and China.

“The project looks exceptional and will make a major contribution to the innovation challenge that the UK faces”. Jonathan Kestenbaum CEO of NESTA

“This is a strategically important project for London which will provide clear opportunities to work collaboratively in various ways including staging international events showcasing UK creativity, e.g. internationalising the London Design Festival and the London Film Festival” Tom Campbell - Creative London - a committed delivery partner that welcomes the alignment of the project objectives and intentions with its own creative industries internationalisation programme.

Luke Johnson Chairman of C4 TV has given the project his support. Andrew Summers chairman of Design Partners, the government body (supported by UK Trade & Investment and DCMS) promoting international trade and investment for UK design businesses supports the project and is keen to work with it.

“British Design Innovation very much welcomes it and are keen to loan any support we can and get directly involved where appropriate”. Maxine Horn CEO of British Design Innovation, (which has 4,500 commercial design practices registered with it - representing 95% of the UK commercial design market).

"Creative Capital - World City is an important and timely initiative which is likely to provide invaluable support and intelligence to creative companies looking to do business in China and India”.
Frances Sorrell - The Sorrell Foundation"

The requested £5 million of HEIF 3 funding is crucial to the project. Given their teaching, research and other third stream commitments, the partner HEIs would not be able to undertake the Creative Capital –World City project without this necessary additional funding.

(A iii) Planned impact on UK’s economy and society

This project will not lead to British creativity fuelling Indian/Chinese market ascendancy. It will enable UK companies to compete effectively with other first world players by embedding London/UK creative expertise in business development opportunities in India/China. Leveraging the existing collaborative projects and established networks of the partners, the project will:-
  • analyse markets in China and India, understand what London/UK creative businesses can offer and through the 5 Creative Business Centres, broker interactions between the market and companies
  • analyse the needs of UK creative businesses to develop specialist ‘toolkits’ which interpret and contextualise generic support materials from for example, DTI/UKTI, and supplement these with targeted research/trend analysis and training
  • assist creative businesses to ‘sell’ creativity and innovation, including co-investment and co-development in what are crucial emerging market places whilst safeguarding their IP value/assets
  • safeguard existing creative industry jobs and create new ones in London and the UK
  • grow third stream income for a wide range of HEIs in London/UK through innovative KT including business internships, international ‘KTPs’, MA/MBA exchange and new course development, and internationalised academic input
  • actively identify and feedback intelligence on international business opportunities to London based creative industry companies and key networks
  • improve knowledge of UK creative industries economic performance and establish international Creative Industry benchmarks to measure performance

(B i) Key Project Partners

The core partnership is strategically complementary and has a track record of designing, managing and delivering on major publicly funded projects including large--scale research projects and knowledge transfer under HEIF 2. It brings together
  • University of the Arts London (the lead partner) 
  • LBS
  • School of Oriental and African Studies (SOAS) 
  • Kings College London
  • Centre for Creative Business (a UAL/ LBS joint venture)

The partnership features universities recognised as leading UK institutions with 5/5*research grades, which through well established networks are already very active internationally in student recruitment, course delivery and knowledge transfer. The partners are well known to each other, have very good working relationships and share the ‘big picture’ with respect to their strategic international development. Together they provide a highly competent force, equipped with creative industry related art, design, technical, technological, political, cultural, social, economic and business management expertise to assist UK creative businesses to succeed in India and China. The high quality knowledge transfer, dissemination and business support networks that the partners are already engaged in will be leveraged to drive further business involvement for ‘Creative Cities. These same networks are also adept at monitoring and analysing user involvement to ensure that the project delivers required outcomes. The project has the support of major creative industry organisations, creative clusters and creative companies in each target area.

The project is based at University of the Arts London, the UK University most closely linked to those creative industries. UAL plays a vital role in serving the knowledge transfer needs of the creative industries in London and the UK, in the arts (visual and performing), design and communications. It already provides a wide range of excellent creative industry focused K T services to London/ UK including, Innovation Centre, Design Laboratory, Centre for Fashion Enterprise, Fashion Business Resource Studio, CoVE Retail, CoVE Fashion, Own It Intellectual Property Advice Service (in partnership with Creative London), Artquest, The Intelligent Media Initiative. Exchange - London’s creative Centre for Knowledge Exchange, IP commercialisation (e.g. licensing, start-up and spin-out companies – via UAL Ventures ltd), consultancy and Knowledge Transfer Partnerships.

In collaboration with London Business School, University of the Arts London operates a joint HEIF 2 funded venture - the Centre for Creative Business tasked with driving innovative new forms of UK-based creative business out of LBS and UAL MBA/ MA programmes through its New Creative Ventures programme and assists existing creative businesses to grow significantly through its Building the Creative Ventures programme. CCB has been a major success story. It is often cited by the Creative Industries Minister James Purnell as an excellent example of what can be done when two leading HEIs with strongly complementary disciplines come together.

(B ii) Indicative contribution from each HEFCE funded partner

Partner Relevant Expertise Contribution

King’s College London Evidence Network; School of Social Science and Public Policy; Cities Group;
School of Humanities;
Risk Management Centre Expertise in evidence based policy methodology
Economic impact techniques
London Centre for Arts and Cultural Enterprise (HEIF 2 funded project)
International, interdisciplinary research using spatial techniques to investigate cultural and economic development.
School of African & Asian Studies Centre for South Asian Studies; Centre for Contemporary China Institute; SOAS Language Centre; SOAS Interface Interdisciplinary approach to understanding the context and dynamics of the target markets
Language and cultural programmes for business to develop skills in Chinese and South Asian languages
London Business School Aditya V Birla Centre

Innovation Centre

Digital Transformations
Mutually beneficial academic exchange between Indian business and the global business community
Macro and micro knowledge of the digital technology industry and access to businesses
Social and economic impact of information and communication technology at macro and micro levels
Centre for Creative Business Driving innovative new forms of creative business; assisting existing creative businesses to grow significantly. Management development programmes
- Potential internationalisation action.
Database of 5,000 creative businesses
Track record of delivering high profile events

Through the combination of its complementary skills and knowledge the partnership will provide:
Guidance on the data collection methodologies and interpretation methods for the Observatory (KCL)
Insights into the cultural, political, and economic dynamics of the target countries and our Creative Business Centres within them (KCL/ SOAS)
Expertise in the delivery of specific aspects of activity such as languages/learning advice, business strategy, investment appraisal and risk appraisal (KCL/ SOAS)
Access to the best possible core data on UK creative businesses and routes for the project to communicate with them. (CCB)
First rate executive education specifically relevant to the creative industries in the UK and the target markets (LBS/ UAL)
Collection of and access to existing published and unpublished reports, and mapping exercises (UAL/ LBS/ CCB)

Each of the partners brings to the project considerable experience in the management and successful delivery of major publicly funded projects such as UAL’s £5m CETL and Screen Academy projects, King’s London Centre for Arts and Cultural Enterprise and LBS Centre for Scientific Enterprise Ltd.

(B iii) Project Management Arrangements

The University of the Arts London as the Lead Partner will be the accountable body. A Project Director will be appointed to manage the overall project and will travel to the five Creative Business Centres to ensure that the deliverables are achieved.  The job descriptions and person specifications for both the Project and Observatory Director posts will reflect the need for these staff to have demonstrable experience in an international context. A Management Board will direct the strategic management of the project. A leading representative of the Creative Industries will chair the Board. It will have membership from each of the partners, employers and the project team. Invited Observers e.g. Mayor of London’s Office, UK Trade and Industry, OST, and liaison with advisory bodies in the priority sub sectors will further ensure full employer engagement.

Part C Detailed Business Plan

(C i) Activities 2006-08 and beyond

This innovative and necessary project has three inter-related components: the Project Management Centre, the Creative Industries Observatory and five Creative Business Centres in China and India.

This is not intended to be a short-term project. The initial project lifespan funded by HEIF 3 will be extended into future years with income generated through the provision of KT activities and services both in London/UK but primarily in the target markets in China and India. To lay an effective foundation for this project it is anticipated that a pre-project preparation, consultation and staff recruitment period will be required. We therefore suggest that the official project start date/public launch might reasonably be deferred to late 2006 as the project is phased in.

Working with the enthusiastic support of key local agencies including Creative London and London First the project will establish the Creative Industry Observatory in London and five international business hubs (Creative Business Centres) located in China and India (a timeline for the project appears below in Section C vi). The project will work with Business Links for London, London Chamber of Commerce and other creative industry business networks in London and the UK, to reach the largest possible number of creative businesses. The project also has the direct support of numerous delivery partner companies including large corporates such as Deloitte that are already well established and active in China and India. Through close liaison it will complement and enhance the work of UKTI (noting the particular emphasis that UKTI is now expected to apply to developing trade activity with China and India), British Council, Creative London, the proposed National Centre for Design and Creativity (Cox Report recommendation) and the Mayor’s Office/Think London operation in Beijing. The operation of these elements of the project will be coordinated through the Project Management Centre at the University of the Arts London.

(C ii) Project Management Centre

The Project Management Centre will provide the financial and administrative management for the project. The Project Director will coordinate and manage the work of the Business Development Managers (BDMs) in the UK and at the Creative Business Centres in China and India and will liaise closely with the Director of the Creative Industries Observatory. UK based BDMs will work with creative industry networks, companies and agencies. Partner based BDMs will also be tasked with the internal ‘selling’ of the project in order to ensure that partners benefit fully from the project and contribute to the project in terms of the international knowledge transfer opportunities through the Centres and the provision of specialist consultancy services through the Creative Industry Observatory.

(C iii) The Creative Industry Observatory

Based at UAL’s: London College of Communication, the Creative Industry Observatory will be developed as an authoritative information, observation and dissemination resource. Staffed by specialist information managers, analysts and researchers the Observatory will:

Collect and provide datasets on e.g. London and UK Creative Industries activity; creative businesses in UK China and India and new creative business opportunities.
Commission research to plug gaps in baseline creative industries subsectoral analysis/market analysis and regulatory frameworks
Produce publications/journal/information updates
Organise and present conferences/seminars/workshops
Carry out brokerage/introductions between creative industry companies through its events programme

Additionally the Observatory will also accept commissions from agencies e.g. DCMS and DTI, to research, provide and maintain urgently needed fresh creative industries data e.g. provide a London and national creative industries subsectoral primary baseline data analysis/ tracking exercise. It is expected that this will aid project sustainability.

(C iv) The International Creative Business Centres

The project will develop Creative Business Centres in:

China: · Beijing · Hong Kong · Shanghai India: · Mumbai · New Delhi

The five Centres will not be “cold starts”, but will be cost effective arrangements that build on existing agency, university and corporate partnerships and networks e.g. with the Beijing Design Centre and Tsinghua University. This will enable an immediate project presence in the target markets, supported locally through links with our partner Universities in China and India, which will be ready to take advantage of known business prospects. Activity at Centres in each location will be quickly ramped up through these proven operational relationships.

Each of the Creative Business Centres will have a physical presence, staffed by dedicated business development specialists and co-located in prime positions typically within delivery partner organisations. Business development staff at the Centres will proactively seek, generate and orchestrate new business opportunity, broker relationships between Chinese, Indian and UK companies and provide technical, cultural and ‘trouble shooting’ support. The Centres will provide a locus for further developing influential networks in the target markets, for market research and data gathering, for channelling market intelligence back to the UK. All Centres will be equipped with appropriate technology to enable fast reliable continuous contact including video conferencing between staff at each Centre, the Creative Industries Observatory and the project management centre. Where local partnerships are unable to provide suitable venues, appropriate commercial premises will be hired for the staging of events. The volume of KT and business activity driven by each Centre will be monitored and should any of these be performing at a lower level than expected, a virtual Centre established in agency premises may replace the physical presence.

(C v) Key outcomes and deliverables of the project will be:

The establishment of the Creative Industry Observatory and its subsequent operation as an exemplar of sector focused KT excellence; as a source of specialist expert knowledge, leading to new joint ventures and commercial agreements between London/UK companies and those in China and India . It will provide valuable contextualised intelligence to and from the Creative Business Centre, UKTI and other agencies, to UK businesses via on-line and other media/events
The establishment of 5 International Creative Business Centre networks to support knowledge transfer activity in stated areas
Estimated £2.0m p.a. revenue potential from international knowledge transfer activities by July 2008
12-15 international business development staff appointed across the network
5 databases of international contacts
15 regionally focused (i.e. 3 per Centre) marketing and promotional events per year
1500 creative industries businesses briefed through 6 - 10 London based strategic business opportunity seminars during the project
The Creative Capital – World City website
Regular specialist on-line e-briefings on India/China opportunities
On-line multi media/interactive specialist support for new business development
100 international business-to-business introductions brokered
10 international business opportunity focused ‘grow your creative business’ events for London based creative industry companies and 10 similar events delivered locally for Indian and Chinese creative companies which will showcase London/UK creativity
‘International Knowledge Transfer Partnerships’ and ‘mini-KTPs’ (will be developed based on experience of graduate placement in international locations) that will be sponsored by Indian and Chinese companies

(C vi) Independent Evaluation Arrangements

Evaluation will be a constant theme/presence throughout the project. The individual contributions of each partner will be subject to several levels of quality control and evaluation, the first line of which will be the existing quality control procedures of each partner. The project management team will internally evaluate each significant project event and interaction in line with customer care best practice – reporting biannually to the Board. Impact assessments will be made of all operational aspects of the project.

Separate to these measures there will be external evaluation at initiation, during and on completion of the project. This will be carried out by independent external specialist evaluation consultants who will be appointed to the project following a selection process. A budget element has been earmarked for this, and potential sources, e.g. University of Glasgow Cultural Policy Group and Innovation Partners Ltd, have already been approached.

(C vii) Dissemination of Project Results

A comprehensive dissemination strategy will be agreed with the Management Board. The principle means of dissemination – not only of results but of process and progress – is intended to be the project website and links to the websites of partners including London First and Creative London. It is also intended that the project will also be featured in creative industries publications and those of the Mayor’s Office and LDA. The Observatory will launch the Creative Industries Journal as the authoritative refereed commentary on the creative industries in the UK, which will also disseminate data/findings from the project. The importance of disseminating information about the project and its impact, to business organisations, trade and professional associations; the HE Sector; UK government agencies; knowledge transfer networks other relevant CKEs in London and the UK and most importantly of similar bodies in China and India is recognised. There will be publications emanating from the project as well as targeted seminars and events targeted both at specific creative sub-sectors, broader business and the broad Creative Industries. Reference will be made to HEIF/HEFCE and DTI-OST throughout the dissemination process.
(C viii) Exit Strategy and Sustainability

This is an ambitiuous venture, with sustainability as an achievable objective. It is envisaged that significant income will be generated from the proposed activities, but this may not be fully in place within two years.

The initial project lifespan funded by HEIF 3 will be extended into future years with income generated through the provision of high quality knowledge transfer activities and services both in London/UK but primarily in the target markets. The first two years will feature an awareness raising campaign as the partnership builds the Creative Business Centre brand recognition at the initial locations. It will also further business partnerships and investment through which the brand and thus the centres concept can be extended to more geographical areas. The project will build a new self-sustaining business model, which will continue to grow in line with the anticipated growth of the Chinese and Indian markets for the creative industries.

It is expected that there will be significant opportunities for co-investment with Chinese and Indian partners, which will defray a large part of the direct operational costs to the partners in future years. The business model also anticipates the possibility of co-developing the Centres as collaborative businesses drawing in more UK creative companies, as the market for creativity in China and India extends to many other cities. This will give the partnership a much wider engagement with the Chinese and Indian marketplace, greatly increasing the potential returns to London/ UK creative businesses, to associated Chinese and Indian companies, and to the HEI partners as the demand for their knowledge transfer services grows. Revenue (in part potentially royalty payments) from this will feed back to the project to support the continued marketing and management of the business. The CIO will also actively seek to generate income through commissions and events. If insufficient progress towards some areas of self-sufficiency has been made two years from the start date, the project could be scaled back (e.g. some of the Creative Business Centres could become virtual centres to a level that can be sustained by the income generated from them) without loss of its overall thrust.

HEFCE/OST are being asked to provide essential start up funds to enable infrastructure development, cover expected start up costs and provide a stable platform for the first two years on which a sustainable operation can be built. Our belief in our ability to achieve sustainability is supported by the way in which the partners have over recent years been developing successful overseas recruitment and consultancy businesses in the target regions.

(C ix) Key Risk Factors

A strong partnership has been put together that has good experience of working successfully overseas. The potential pitfalls and challenges are largely known and many have been encountered and effectively dealt with in the past. However, this does not mean that the partnership is complacent about risk. As part of the business plan, a fuller assessment and treatment of risk will be undertaken with King’s College London’s Risk Strategy Group. A risk management strategy will subsequently be devised. Some indicative risks have been set out below.

Indicative Risk Rating Action
Unable to recruit appropriate staff or Low/ Medium Phase these international activities slightly
premises in China/India slower than in timeline
Partners unable to agree on share/ Low/ Medium Board to develop formal partnership agreements
distribution of income/benefit
Lack of KT business opportunities in Low/ Medium Vigorous campaign in target markets
China and India with UKTI and delivery partners in target markets
Income does not grow sufficiently Medium Scale back Hub/CIO activity to sustainable level
to fund Year 3 operation recast some centres as virtual centres
Seek co-investment/ merger with local partners
Too many CI sub sectors too early. Medium Focus on key selected areas initially
Slow bureaucracy in both countries Medium/ High Local partners well used to this will advise/ guide
Financial export restrictions/guarantees Medium Chinese income held in China and used to offset partner
(mainly China) costs on other (e.g. recruitment) operations.
Absence of experience of international High Careful screening/selection of business partners,
business standards use of strong contracts, particularly IPR
but recognise that even so, risk remains

The project represents a novel HEIF/business model but the experience of the partners in developing international operations and in delivering on HEIF/ third stream developments and other major collaborative projects reduces the risk associated with it
(C x) Finances

John Robertson left an annotation ()

In their own words: this from
http://www.ikt.org.uk/heif3/Forum.aspx?L...

Lessons learnt.
These are the lessons learnt so far from delivering our HEIF 3 project - to find a full copy of our winning bid please click download on this page.

1. The first lesson is that everything takes much longer than you might expect it to. Everything is being done at a distance, in different time zones. In the case of China particularly, time needed to be spent to understand the business culture and the systems of business development before the programme could really begin to engage with Chinese business. There is also a very real need to overcome a significant language barrier. All of this was more or less foreseen, but the practical impact of it on our ability to mount the programme only became apparent once the programme got underway.

2. Having an in-country presence of senior UK managers is highly desirable, yet this is not practicable. Although we have fairly frequent visits to China and India to compensate, we remain to a very large extent reliant upon those that we have recruited. Good local knowledge and contacts are highly valued, but this by itself is not enough. Good experience of and ability in business development is also extremely important. Recruiting the right people is crucial as is regular management contact with and support for them through a mix of technology based and face-to-face communication.

3. Recruiting the right people has been problematical and more expensive than had been expected. Not surprisingly, compensation has had to be adjusted to reflect market conditions in each locality. Because recruitment to the programme is taking place during a period of private sector expansion, the market in each locality has been found to be particularly tight with respect to finding well-qualified individuals with good language skills. This has led to higher costs and delayed recruitment.

4. Reliance has had to be placed on outsourced services and agents to provide the kind of ‘back office’ administration and support that we take for granted in our own HEI. This is largely because our own in-house services do not necessarily have the experience or expertise to provide much needed guidance and support to a programme that operates across international boundaries and under different legislative regimes. Initial assumptions concerning the extent to which existing relationships with our network of recruitment agents could be leveraged to provide such services have not been borne out in practice. This has all placed additional strain on the Programme Management Team, which it is fair to say has done tremendously well to cope with a severe learning curve.

5. The development of a fully functioning internal and external partnership also requires a lot of time and effort even if, as in our case, those partners are largely known to you and have experience of working together on different projects. Large-scale projects bring their own tensions and partners bring their own expectations and agendas. We have learned that there is a clear need for good communication (which we have not always managed as well as we might wish), for clear understanding of the mutual purpose and objectives of the project (not always acknowledged within a partnership) and that while consensual agreement is always sought, resolute leadership is a quality that should not be underestimated.

6. Having the support and advice of very experienced and accomplished Creative Industries business people on the Programme Advisory Board has been extremely beneficial in moving towards the achievement of a balanced approach to the commercial and academic aspects of international knowledge transfer as well as assisting with strategising and implementing the programme.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Summery by transcriber:

Nobody who can get a better job would want to work in a quango supporting Chinese autocracy at the expense of people who pay for the quango. It's a nonsense. Nobody applies.

Nobody knows what this project is for and those who apply by accident and perhaps really think that China trade on fiddled exchange rates by both sides is good for taxpayers in the UK, get the job. Well done. They also find a mixture of briefs and interventions which keeps them in London and prevents them doing the job they hoped to do.

Frankly it's a plaything of courtiers; job creation by Marie Antoinette

John Robertson left an annotation ()

related: London Fashion week @ £4.2m over 3 years no longer even pretends to have figures about job creation: http://www.whatdotheyknow.com/request/lo...


Planb4fashion is a blog by Veganline.com which is a vegan shoe shop


We pay several times for each badly-run country

We pay several times for each badly-run country.

We benefit once, or I do, because I'm wearing Primark's cheapest jeans.

We pay in having fewer jobs, because there's less rag trade here.

We pay in having fewer taxes for the same reason.

We pay because our politicians send our army to those poor and unstable parts of the world that have no secondary education or welfare state.


We pay in having unstable desperate parts of the world that refugees and economic migrants leave, overcrowding parts of the UK.


We probably pay in the spread of disease - thinking more about African governments which choose not to set-up a health service.


We pay 0.7% of our GDP, out of our taxes, towards the social services bills of badly-run countries like Bangladesh. Pakistani taxpayers pay less than that for their own few state hospitals, and many Pakistani MPs do not even bother to pay Pakistani tax. It's probably the same in Bangladesh or India.

So we have all paid six times for my pair of trousers and politicians' failure to write a proper tariff against goods from badly-run countries. That's before any ultuism towards people in Bangladesh. My jeans are beginning to feel a bit special now!



Planb4fashion is a blog by Veganline.com which is a vegan shoe shop


Wednesday, 11 September 2013

UK Journalists paid by government to promote Chinese goods out of UK taxes

A government programme paid over £550 each in subsidised trips to sixty journalists & buyers every six months to report on shoes and clothes made overseas for London Fashion Week. MPs with shoe factories in their constituencies - Peter Bone in Wellingborough and Patricia Hewitt in Leicester East - did not write a single letter to protest..
Peter Bone MP is an accountant and MP for Wellingborough. His constituency has more shoe factories in it than anywhere else in the UK, but when the Sanders and Sanders factory was running-up to closure last year he showed no sign of knowing that the department for Business Innovation and Skills was subsidising the competition by sending buyers and journalists to report on glossy shows of Chinese shoes such as Terra Plana at London Fashion Week. If he did know that his constituents were paying taxes towards putting themselves out of work, he certainly didn't write a letter about it to the UK Trade and Investment, a ministerial agency which funds this joint scheme with London Development Agency. The department's only correspondence with him or the now-closed factory was a series of email tip-offs about export opportunities, such as overseas trade shows. They sent fifteen over about four years.Patricia Hewitt MP is MP for Leicester West, another shoemaking area with an unemployment rate of 13.8% . Equity Shoes was a major local employer until closure in January 2009, with a recent payroll of 200 and a 100 at closure. Like Sanders, it was a tenacious company - Sanders was a family trust and Equity was a staff co-op, so neither closed lightly. Patricia Hewitt had every reason to know about the scheme to put her constituents out of work because she had to sign for it: she was secretary of state for trade and industry (now the department for Business Innovation and Skills) between 2001 and 2005. She could have picked-up the phone during any of those years and asked

"why are we subsidising the competition?".

It is not revealed what she said in the office when she was minister, but a recent freedom of information act request that she did not write a single letter on the subject of Equity Shoes to the department between 2005 and the end of January 2010, even after being tipped-off in November that the question was going being asked.

"We have completed a search of our electronic information management systems and we do not have any record of UK Trade & Investment having received letters from the MPs for Leicester or Rushden on the subject of UK shoe manufacturers. "

Published freedom of information requests & replies on Whatdotheyknow.com describe a scheme that UK Trade and Investment call the International Buyers Programme, funded over roughly four years and still in place.

"since September 2005, UK Trade & Investment have paid British Fashion Council £215,555. This funding is for the international buyers programme for London Fashion week. The aim of the programme is to bring the most significant and influential buyers and press to London Fashion week each season."

London Development Agency quotes "£120k more than budgeted for 2008/9 was spent on LFW support as funding was allocated to support the International Guest Programme to cover reduced funding from UKTI", but it still got "UKTI support during 2008/09" of £33,000. Some of the money may be counted twice as British Fashion Council is also sponsored by the Mayfair Hotel and British Airways "The official airline of London Fashion Week", which are both likely to have catered for these expenses-paid trips: ""The LFW International Guest Programme, supported jointly by LDA and UKTI, saw 60 key, targeted international press and buyers assisted in their visits to LFW, through flight subsidies and accommodation. These visitors are given welcome packs and are accompanied through their stay as they visit the exhibition, catwalk shows and showrooms. Feedback on media coverage generated and orders placed is collected after their visits."

Did the money achieve anything good?

There are attempts to quote outputs on the projects report to the London Development Agency, but the list omits manufacturers. The only figures broken down in any detail are figures of media coverage, reported by an agency paid for by British Fashion Council. And there are anecdotal quotes. It's not often that Vogue is quoted on Indymedia but we may even add to the list of outputs by repeating this quote:

""The Season London Shone" wrote US Vogue's Sarah Mower. "Who'd have thought that London would shine at its brightest during a crisis. London's Designers squared up to the fall with an exceptional out-flowing of creativity and polish ... that made Fall 2009 this city's most dazzling performance for years."

...ends. Sources:
"Record Figures for London Fashion Week"
 http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/news_details.aspx?ID=86

"AGREEMENT FOR FUNDING RELATING TO CREATIVE
SECTOR SUPPORT - DESIGNER FASHION Parties: LDA / BFC
Ref: 23300 QUARTERLY REPORT 2008/9: Q3&4 [biannual update]"
 http://www.whatdotheyknow.com/request/london_fashion_week_biannual_upd#comment-7716

"Consultation re closed UK shoe factories" information request and reply on Whatdotheyknow.com:
 http://www.whatdotheyknow.com/request/consultation_re_closed_uk_shoe_f_2#comment-8530

 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leicester_West

Pictures of Equity Shoes buildings post closure:
 http://www.28dayslater.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=40786
software too.

This blog is by a vegan shoe company called Veganline.com that sells vegan shoes boots & belts

Sunday, 8 September 2013

Correction: there was a debate "supported by..."

http://www.britishfashioncouncil.com/news/197/Tax-Breaks-for-Eco-Fashion-Businesses "This call for action follows this week’s RE: Fashion Summit and the recent British Fashion Council’s Estethica debate [^] on the promotion of ethical fashion and consumer engagement.  The campaign, supported by Monsoon, Vivienne Westwood, Edun, George at ASDA, From Somewhere and London College of Fashion’s Centre for Sustainable Fashion, calls on all parties to recognise that to effect change, sustainability and ethical fashion also needs to make commercial sense."

So European regional development money is not investing in my future or my region, as the label on Centre for Sustainable Development says, but on a press release by taxpayer-funded people asking for them to be exempt from tax. Along with their other sponsors, of course, who make things in other parts of the world.

"RE: Fashion Summit", is just the usual suspects under another name. This is Ethical Fashion Forum's web site: "Launched the RE:Fashion Awards- the official awards for ethical fashion, creating a platform for best practice across the supply chain. Held the RE:Fashion summit bringing together industry leaders and initiated the RE:Fashion manifesto, setting out sustainability parameters and targets for the UK industry." The link is to a google for "RE:Fashion manifesto", which finds two references, both on the Ethical Fashion Forum web site.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="240"]European Union - Investing in your Future Centre for Sustainable Fashion is paid for by the European Regional Development Fund 2007-13[/caption]



This blog is by a vegan shoe company called Veganline.com that sells vegan shoes boots & belts

Monsoon called for tax breaks on itself, after doing this to others...

What Monsoon said after a debate calling for tax breaks:
"We need ethical fashion to become part of the mainstream if the industry is to play its part in a more sustainable future" - Peter Simon,Chairman

What Monsoon suppliers say about being paid by Monsoon
Anonymous on Drapers' record | 27 February 2013 9:17 am
"We have worked with Monsoon in the past. The ruthlessness has always been there... unfortunately this is not a "one of a kind" example from the High Street."

Anonymous on Drapers' record | 8 June 2013 11:05 am
"Drapers should investigate Monsoon more carefully they have now asked each supplier to fill out a costing form to show how much they are making. They want a detailed breakdown of overheads and % profit! This along with their terms of payment and discount makes them one of the most unattractive retailers to work with.

I always thought it was a partnership supplying a retailer but Monsoon are incredibly ruthless and someone needs to speak up and investigate."This is a press release promoted by Monsoon.

PRESS RELEASE

Industry Calls for Tax Breaks for Eco Fashion Businesses

Harold Tillman, Chairman of the British Fashion Council is spearheading a campaign that will incentivise fashion businesses to work in a more sustainable way and to make eco fashion more affordable and accessible to consumers.

This call for action follows this week’s RE: Fashion Summit and the recent British Fashion Council’s estethica debate on the promotion of ethical fashion and consumer engagement. The campaign, supported by Monsoon, Vivienne Westwood, Edun, George at ASDA, From Somewhere and London College of Fashion’s Centre for Sustainable Fashion, calls on all parties to recognise that to effect change, sustainability and ethical fashion also needs to make commercial sense.
Maybe they want to get the money back that they donated to a political party. Everybody knows that multinationals channel payments through different countries and claim that the profit was made in the one with the lowest tax - Luxemburg for example - but Monsoon wants to save the costs of putting the money through somewhere like Luxemburg and to take the tax break right here in the UK. Oh here is a bit more about ethical fashion.

The retailer was found to have owed £104,508 to 1,438 workers - putting it at the top of a list of 115 companies published today.

Monsoon said the failure occurred between 2011 and 2013 because of its policy of offering staff discounts upwards of 50% on its clothing, which they are encouraged to wear to work.
For a proportion of its 5,000 UK store employees the discount was mistakenly deducted from their wages, bringing them below the minimum wage threshold.

The issue came to light when HM Revenue & Customs reviewed Monsoon’s payroll system.
Staff parking space outside the Monsoon office .

Socially aware fashion degree uses the "s" word for vagueness about human rights

Syllabuses for these Ethical Fashion courses tend to be written by the state-backed Centre for Sustainable Fashion which says "Ethical" in the same way that some prople say "Hullo" to open a conversation, begging the question of which ethic, immediately followed by "Sustainable", which sounds less vague next to "Ethical". Basically they want big business to be a bit greener and for everyone but big business folk to be paid starvation wages. For that bit of propaganda they get paid by us via Higher Education Funding Council and sometimes Department for International Development.
First socially aware fashion degree launches | Ms Wanda's
First socially aware fashion degree launches | Ms Wanda'shttp://www.mswandas.co.uk/2013/03/12/first-socially-aware-fashion-degree-launches/Fashion students in the UK will now get sustainability and ethics embedded in their studies thanks to Buckinghamshire New University.